This mountain range should be on every tour of northern England

Set between the national parks of the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland, the green mountains of the North Pennines rise like dragons’ spines to form a rugged dividing line across the country. The region offers some of the finest qualities of its more famous neighbours — glorious hillwalking, ancient ruins and industrial heritage — but is a quieter alternative for those seeking an adventure in the wilds of northern England.

A region of gushing cascades and gusty slopes, it’s not hard to see why the area — a National Landscape and UNESCO Global Geopark — has long stoked the fires of the imagination. Folklore tells of red-cloaked ghosts that dwell in waterfalls; demonic river sprites; and spectral horse-drawn carriages rattling along country roads. But it’s in the realm of reality, not myth, that this region is at its most remarkable. Amid the natural beauty of its landscapes, humanity has made its mark in spectacular ways, with the scars of old quarries and lead mines now havens for wildlife. The North Pennines also make a quiet base from which to explore the longest and best-preserved stretch of Hadrian’s Wall, one of the most remarkable Roman monuments, just across the border in Northumberland.

What’s there to do?

The North Pennines’ waterfalls, caves and wild basalt outcrops are best explored on foot. Hiking highlights include High Cup Nick, a 9.5-mile, five-hour loop through a glacial valley on the western fringes of the North Pennines National Landscape, starting in the village of Dufton. Surging furiously down a sheer drop on the River Tees is the High Force waterfall. It’s a pleasant three-mile, 40-minute riverside walk from the village of Bowlees.

E-biking is another popular activity that makes navigating the hills much easier. Hadrian Cycling in Haltwhistle is a great place to pick up a bike and explore the area around Hadrian’s Wall.

The North Pennines were a hub for lead and zinc mining in the 19th century and relics of the industrial era are scattered all over the landscape. Follow in the footsteps of workers on the Ashes Quarry Geotrail, past ruined gunpowder huts and old waste heaps now overgrown with grasses and wildflowers, or discover the region’s railway history at the Hub Museum in Alston.

And don’t miss the chance to explore the Roman fortress Birdoswald, above the river Irthing. Only the foundations remain, but it’s nonetheless one of the best-conserved forts along Hadrian’s Wall.

Where’s the best place to stay?

There’s a diverse range of accommodation, from campsites to farmhouse B&BS, but for something special try Farlam Hall. This four-star country hotel lies a short walk north of Kirkhouse, a tiny hamlet of stone cottages on the northern edge of the North Pennines.

The oldest parts of Farlam Hall date back to the 1600s, but its rooms have a modern-farmhouse feel. Two restaurants — the Michelin-starred Cedar Tree and more casual Bistro Enkel — champion local ingredients and produce grown in the hotel’s gardens.

For all its luxuries, this is very much a place geared towards the great outdoors. Maps and walking booklets are provided in the rooms and the hotel offers packages that include accommodation, tasting menus at the Cedar Tree and daily activities such as guided walks.

Where else can I try local produce?

The coiled Cumberland sausage is a local delicacy and the star attraction of breakfast plates region-wide. Sample it at The Nook, a farm shop/cafe overlooking the remains of a Roman fort known as Epiacum. In the nearby town of Alston, Saddlers Bakery and Bistro specialises in a steak and ale pie that’s perfect hiking fuel.

After a wild walk on the hills, retreat to the Lion House pub in Allendale village, which serves award-winning Allendale Brew Co beers from its antique bar.