Play and stay in the mountains of eastern Nevada
Discover the best winter adventures and uncommon overnighters offered in one of the Silver State’s most idyllic mountainscapes.
Every winter, Nevada’s snowy peaks beckon cold crusaders and adventurous spirits from around the world. It’s no wonder—the state’s very name originates from the Spanish word nevada, meaning “snow-capped.” It’s a destination that delivers on its promise of pillow-soft powder amid an incredible backdrop, with views that stretch as far as the eye can see.
One of the state’s best-kept secrets for winter adventure are the Ruby Mountains. A roughly 3 ½-hour drive from Salt Lake City, the greater Ruby Mountain Wilderness stretches for 90,000 acres, and includes 10 breathtaking peaks over 10,000 feet tall, as well as dozens of alpine lakes and around 300 miles of trails.
National Geographic Adventure Photographer Tara Kerzhner recently went on assignment to the Ruby Mountains and surrounding towns to capture the region’s most exhilarating winter activities and experiences. Kerzhner is no stranger to high-altitude escapades—she’s photographed action-packed sports for almost 20 years—but this trip was a first for her. From extreme skiing to one-of-a-kind overnight stays, take a look at Kerzhner’s uniquely Nevada winter journey.
For thrill-seekers like Kerzhner, it doesn’t get more epic than heli-skiing. The peaks in the Ruby Mountains see a couple hundred inches of snowfall each season, and one of the best ways to access this backcountry terrain is to hop in a high-altitude helicopter—or buckle up for a ride in a powerful PistenBully snowcat.
For 47 years, the family-owned and operated Ruby Mountain Heli Experience has welcomed skiers who dream of bluebird powder days. When the Royer family launched Ruby Mountain Heli Experience in 1977, they had no idea they’d one day become the oldest family-owned, heli-skiing operation in the United States. This is thanks in part to their continued dedication to their operation—and to the expert guides and staff who prioritize the safety of their guests. Taking a run down these slopes is as memorable as it gets.
“Despite being no stranger to big mountains, heli-skiing was a first [for me]. What’s happening at Ruby Mountain Heli simply cannot be missed.”Tara Kerzhner
From the start of their journey, the Royer family set their hearts on creating a lodge experience to share their hospitality. In 2017, their dream came true with the opening of the 10-room Ruby 360 Lodge, which offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Ruby Mountains. Here, guests are greeted with the type of welcome that makes you feel like you are part of the family. Add on a cozy, crackling fireplace, exquisite food and beverages, first-class sleeping accommodations, and friendly, dedicated staff—it’s the type of stay that leaves a lasting imprint.
For guests seeking a more adventurous stay, the 120-acre private property also offers two secluded yurts: the Conrad Creek Yurt and the Ruby High Yurt, located at 7,000 and 9,700 feet, respectively. These solar-powered yurts are perfect for up to four campers who aren’t afraid of heights and dream of sleeping under the stars.
Ready to tackle her next adventure, Kerhzner packed up and headed south to discover fire, ice, and the Old West in Ely, Nevada. Winter lovers descend on the mountain town each January for three days of art and athletics at the annual Fire and Ice Winter Festival. For more than 20 years, this has been Nevada’s most creative winter celebration, packed with of ice sculpting, community art projects, concerts, and scavenger hunts. There are friendly feats of strength and endurance, like snowshoeing, fat biking, and cross-country ski racing competitions held at nearby Ward Mountain. Ice fishing at Comins Lake, just a 10-minute drive from downtown Ely, is also popular with locals and visitors. The lake spans an impressive 410 acres and is home to hefty amounts of trout and bass.
The main attraction of the Fire and Ice weekend occurs on Saturday night. Experienced pyrotechnicians, with the help of the Nevada Northern Railway put on a one-of-a-kind fireworks display that’s not to be missed. This year they enlisted the help of Locomotive 93, a beautiful steam-powered train built in 1909, to do the honors. Spectators watched with wonderment as the train shoots off the night’s fireworks display while simultaneously chugging down the tracks. After the show, festival attendees and locals migrated over to the railway’s station to enjoy an impressive art sculpture bonfire, an event that brings the community together while paying tribute to Burning Man.
As someone who is enamored with trains, the Nevada Northern Railway Museum was a must-see for Kerzhner. The 56-acre National Historic Landmark includes 60 structures that date back to 1906. Visitors can travel through time by viewing the original steam and diesel locomotives and some original written records of monumental events in US history. Both the railway’s beloved cat Dirt Junior (otherwise known as DJ and successor to the original “Dirt”) and its charismatic and knowledgeable executive director, Mark Bassett, can be found roaming the shop.
“If you're seeking an experience unlike any other, look no further than the historic Nevada Northern Railway Museum. I can't emphasize enough the joy this stop brought me. From the functioning steam engine trains to Facebook-famous cats, there's bound to be something here that you’ll want to see.”Tara Kerzhner
For a stay in Ely that’s rich in history and heritage, be sure to check into the iconic Hotel Nevada and Gambling Hall. When it was built in 1929, this was the tallest building in the state. (Today, it’s the tallest in Ely.) At one time, this was a favorite stop of the rich and famous as they ventured between California and Sun Valley, Idaho. Today, the 64 recently renovated rooms above the casino serve as a time capsule of Nevada history, with plenty of 20th-century artifacts and mementos. Because of its location on the Loneliest Road in America and the Great Basin Highway, the hotel is considered a road-tripper rite of passage.
About an hour’s drive from Ely is Great Basin National Park, another one of Nevada’s best-kept secrets. The park is home to the state’s second-tallest peak (Wheeler Peak, which tops off at 13,063 feet) and has the distinction of being an International Dark Sky Park. All of the Silver State’s geographic diversity is here: alpine lakes, ancient bristlecone pine forests, scenic mountain streams, and snow-capped peaks. In one of the country's last true dark night skies, visitors can spot the Milky Way and other galaxies, planets, and thousands of stars and constellations most nights with the naked eye.
Great Basin National Park is also home to the state’s longest—and one of the most spectacular—underground cave systems in the state. A whole new world opens up as you descend into Lehman Caves, which was discovered in the mid-1880s. Inside, there are stalagmites, stalactites, and helictites that seem to defy gravity, along with more than 500 shield formations. This intricate ecosystem is home to the pseudoscorpion and other creatures only found in this region.
After these iconic above- and below-ground adventures, Kerzhner was ready for some much-needed shut-eye, and there’s no better spot to sleep under a blanket of stars than at the Stargazer Inn in Baker. Reitred National Park Service employee James Woolsey and his wife, Liz Woolsey, opened the Stargazer Inn and Bristlecone General Store in 2022. Together, they serve, respectively, as the Chief Enthusiasm Officer and the Chief Fun Officer of the properties. The Bristlecone General Store is many things to many people, including a showcase for local artists, an outdoor gear store, a grocery and refueling station, and a community hub for those from near and far. The Stargazer Inn sits at the gateway to the national park, and at night, the Milky Way swirls over the property.
“My stay at the Stargazer Inn was a highlight of my week. From the locally sourced groceries to the well-curated room amenities, along with the down-to-earth hospitality, I truly cannot imagine a better place to visit—or, in my case—return to.”Tara Kerzhner
On the way back to Salt Lake City, chances are you’ll pass the Confederated Tribes of the Goshute Reservation in White Pine County. About 150 tribal citizens live on these 122,085 acres that span Nevada and Utah. Kerzhner stopped by to chat with friend Chuck Naranjo, who is the wellness coordinator of the Goshute Diabetes Program. He is also a tribal citizen, fitness coach, and weightlifter who inspires his community to invest in their health and wellness. While their connection to the land has remained unchanged, Naranjo believes the tribe needs to continue to evolve—and he puts fitness and athletics at the forefront of that evolution. He wants people to challenge stereotypes and understand that Natives lift weights, rock climb, ski big mountains, and train like everyone else. They do it all.
“The way I look at it, it's like fitness is my medicine no matter what type I'm doing," says Naranjo. "It's the freest therapy you can do. As long as you get moving, it's medicine, and it's also fitness."
One of Nevada’s best characteristics is that it offers visitors a chance to be active and get outdoors year-round. Exploring places like these in eastern Nevada opens up an entirely different world—one where the snow sparkles by day and the skies sparkle by night, and where visitors can feel the magnitude of nature and history at every turn.
