Sicilian seduction: do you know the secret history of cannoli?

Allow your teeth to break through a crisp, golden pastry shell and the reward of soft clouds of sweetened ricotta await. Sicily’s emblematic dessert — the cannoli — has captured the palates of food enthusiasts worldwide, but there’s also a fascinating story behind its shape.

It’s thought cannoli have been around since the Middle Ages, with some accounts suggesting they were first made while Sicily was under Arab rule. One legend has it that in the ninth century, cannoli were invented by a harem of women residing in Caltanissetta (derived from the Arabic ‘Qalʿat an-nisāʾ, meaning ‘castle of women’). To pass the time during the long absence of the groom, the women of the castle dedicated themselves to the preparation of various foods, especially sweet treats. They’re said to have crafted the very first cannoli to honour the virility of their emir.

Following the island’s conversion to Catholicism in the 11^th century, the production of cannoli became synonymous with Sicily’s monasteries and convents. The recipe was preserved by nuns who’d prepare them for special occasions and religious festivals — a tradition that dates back to Ancient Greece. In antiquity, the making and consumption of suggestive foods was associated with celebrating fertility and helped foster a connection with the divine.

During Carnival, a pre-Lenten celebration, the phallic-shaped cannoli became tokens of desire, exchanged with playful lyrics. Men would gift the treats to prospective lovers to show their affections, singing: "Ogni cannolu è scettru d' ogni Re... lu cannolu è la virga di Mosè" (Every cannolo is the sceptre of every king… the cannolo is the penis of Moses).

The recipes were closely guarded by nuns who, over the centuries, secretly passed their baking techniques down the generations without ever writing them down. Since the 14^th century, the nuns produced numerous sweet treats that were served to the aristocratic families of Palermo through a small hatch from the monastery.

The dolceria (sweet shop) of the monastery was responsible for making ricotta cakes, almond biscuits, filled pasticciotti, pancakes, preserves and more. The sale of sweets represented an important source of income, which was vital for the survival of the religious order and the upkeep of its buildings.

In the late 1980s, only two dolcerias were still actively baking in Palermo — the monastery of Santa Caterina d'Alessandria and the monastery of Sant'Andrea delle Vergini. After the last nuns left in 2014, the time-honoured tradition was at risk of being lost forever. Fortunately, Maria Oliveri, an expert in cultural heritage studies, took it upon herself to collect the recipes and publish them.

Oliveri also opened her own dolceria, I segreti del chiostro (Secrets of the Cloisters), within the monastery of Santa Caterina. It continues to use the historic recipes collected from Palermo’s 21 cloistered monasteries in a bid to preserve the tradition of monastic baking.

Olivieri’s bakery is world famous for its cannoli, but these aren’t the only erotic treats on offer. The menu hosts some colourful options, including Trionfo di Gola (Triumph of Gluttony), Felle del Cancelliere (the Chancellor’s Buttocks) and Minni di Vergine (which mimic the shape of St Agatha’s breasts) — all inspired by the nuns’ historic recipes.

These days, visiting the monastery is a must-do in Palermo. Stepping into the church’s interior reveals walls covered in delicately sculpted marble. It feels like being enveloped by a baroque wedding cake.

The former nun’s quarters are modest but beautiful and the inner courtyard of the cloister is one of the most peaceful places in Palermo, featuring a fountain by Sicilian sculptor Ignazio Marabitti. From the roof terrace, visitors are treated to the finest views of the city and its surrounding crown of mountains. To sit in the sunshine and crunch through the dolcieria’s exceptional cannoli really is an experience close to divine.